If you’ve watched a few tree felling videos online, it probably looks simple: cut a notch, make a backcut, yell “timber,” and the tree falls right where you want it.
In our work at Strobert Tree Services, we’ve seen how far that is from reality. We’re often called after DIY attempts that end in crushed fences, damaged roofs, and close calls with power lines.
Here’s the statistic we wish every homeowner knew:
Ninety percent of tree felling accidents happen within 15 seconds of the tree beginning to move, and within 5 ft of the trunk.
We’ll come back to that “5-15-90 rule,” because it’s the most important safety concept in tree felling.
First, when is removal actually necessary? We typically recommend taking a tree down when:
- The tree is dead or dying
- It’s diseased or infested and structurally weakened
- Storm damage has split trunks, broken leaders, or lifted roots
- It threatens structures or utilities (houses, driveways, power lines)
- You’re clearing space for additions, driveways, or new landscaping
If you’re eyeing a problem tree and thinking about DIY, stop for a moment.
Before you fire up the chainsaw, read this.
What Exactly Is Tree Felling?
When we talk about tree felling, we mean:
- Directional felling – Bringing a standing tree down in a planned direction using specific cuts.
- Full removal – Felling plus limbing, bucking, and often stump grinding and cleanup.
A few key terms we use on every job:
- Notch (face cut) – The wedge-shaped cut on the side where you want the tree to fall.
- Hinge wood – The uncut strip between notch and backcut that steers the fall.
- Backcut – The cut on the opposite side of the notch that releases the tree.
- Limbing – Removing branches after the tree is down.
- Bucking – Cutting the trunk into sections.
If the notch, hinge, or backcut are wrong, the tree can twist, split, or fall off target in seconds.
The 5-15-90 Rule: Your Most Important Safety Lesson
Again, the rule:
Ninety percent of tree felling accidents happen within 15 seconds of the tree beginning to move, and within 5 ft of the trunk.
Most serious injuries happen right when the tree starts to go—and right where the saw operator is standing.
From what we see in the field, this happens because of:
- Kickback and shifting weight in the trunk
- Barber-chair splits where the trunk tears vertically and shoots backward
- Butt rebound when the base kicks or rolls as the top hits the ground or another object
The #1 lifesaver is simple:
Plan a 45° escape path and start moving the instant the backcut opens and the tree begins to move.
We never stand over the stump to “watch it fall.” Once the tree commits, we’re already moving away.
How Tall Is That Tree? The Stick Trick
Homeowners constantly underestimate tree height. That’s how trees end up on roofs or across property lines.
A quick way to estimate height is the stick trick:
Hold a stick vertically at arm’s length so it’s as tall as your arm is long. Walk forward or backward until the top of the stick lines up with the top of the tree and the bottom with the tree’s base. The distance between you and the tree is roughly its height.
Why does this matter? Because your clearance zone should be about 2× the tree’s height in any possible fall direction. A 40-foot tree can affect an 80-foot radius of property, people, and power lines.
Step 1: Assess the Tree and Site Like a Pro
Before we start a saw, we walk the site and read the tree:
- Lean – Which way does the tree naturally want to fall?
- Wind – Are gusts pushing against your intended direction?
- “Widowmakers” – Dead or broken branches that could drop anytime.
- Hazards within 2× tree height – Power lines, houses, sheds, fences, roads, other trees.
- Tree health – Rot, cracks, cavities, fungus, or compromised roots.
When we see multiple red flags here, we tell homeowners plainly: this is not a DIY tree.
Step 2: Tools & PPE Most Homeowners Skip
We can often predict how risky a DIY attempt will be by what someone is wearing and holding.
Minimum PPE we use on jobs:
- Hard hat
- Eye/face and hearing protection
- Chainsaw chaps or pants
- Cut-resistant gloves
- Steel-toe boots with good traction
Essential tools:
- A properly sized, well-maintained chainsaw
- Felling wedges
- Ropes/rigging when needed
- Felling levers or cant hooks
A dull, poorly maintained saw is one of the fastest ways to lose control of a cut.
The 5-Step Professional Felling Plan
On every removal, we follow a consistent plan:
- Identify height, lean, and hazards (using methods like the stick trick).
- Check equipment – sharp chain, working chain brake, wedges, ropes, PPE.
- Plan and clear two escape routes at roughly 45° back and away from the fall line.
- Cut an open-face notch in the intended direction of fall, to proper depth and angle.
- Make the backcut, leave a hinge, and ESCAPE immediately once the tree begins to move.
If there isn’t space for clear escape routes, we don’t fell—that’s a hard rule.
Common DIY Mistakes (And What They Cost)
Here are the errors we see most when we’re called to fix DIY attempts:
- Misjudging tree size, lean, or height
- Using a dull or undersized chainsaw
- Skipping the notch or cutting it too shallow or too deep (risking barber-chair splits)
- Cutting through the hinge and losing control of direction
- Standing too close to the stump when the tree moves (violating the 5-15-90 rule)
- Ignoring power lines, structures, or bystanders
- Felling in wind, on slopes, or slick ground
- Cutting hung-up trees without proper rigging
- Working while tired or overconfident
- Having no escape path cleared
And it all adds up to one hard truth:
Misjudging a tree’s size, using the wrong tools, or overlooking hazards like power lines can lead to injuries, property damage, and unexpected costs.
After the Fall: Limbing & Bucking
The danger doesn’t stop when the tree hits the ground.
Downed trees still have:
- Tension and compression in the wood that can cause branches or logs to spring or roll
- Rolling hazards on slopes
- Kickback risks during awkward limbing cuts
We always work from the uphill side, stand off to one side of the bar, and read where the log is under stress before we cut.
Legal, Environmental & Permit Issues
Homeowners are often surprised by the paperwork side of tree removal. Depending on your area, you may need to:
- Get permits for certain sizes or species of trees
- Coordinate with utilities when work is near power or gas lines
- Respect protected trees or buffer zones
- Follow local rules for burning, hauling, or disposing of wood and debris
We stay on top of these rules so our customers don’t end up with fines or legal problems.
When DIY Is a Terrible Idea
We strongly recommend calling a professional if:
- The tree is over 20–30 feet tall
- It’s near houses, sheds, or power lines
- It leans toward a target you can’t afford to hit
- It’s dead, decayed, or storm-damaged
- It’s on a slope or unstable ground
- It’s intertwined with other trees or already hung up
- You don’t have full PPE, proper tools, and experience
If you’re not 100% confident about your plan, that’s your sign to step back.
Frequently Asked Questions About Tree Felling
How dangerous is tree felling really?
From what we see in the field, tree felling is one of the most dangerous projects a homeowner can take on. According to the 5-15-90 rule, ninety percent of tree felling accidents happen within 15 seconds of the tree beginning to move, and within 5 ft of the trunk. Kickback, barber-chair splits, and butt rebound cause most of the serious injuries we hear about. When you have a trained crew with the right equipment and escape routes planned, those risks drop dramatically.
What is the 5-15-90 rule and why does it matter?
The 5-15-90 rule says that ninety percent of tree felling accidents happen within 15 seconds of the tree beginning to move, and within 5 ft of the trunk. That’s exactly why we never stand next to the stump “to watch it fall.” The moment the backcut opens and the tree starts to move, we’re already heading down a pre-planned 45° escape path, well outside that danger zone.
How can I estimate the height of a tree before cutting it down?
We often show homeowners the simple stick trick: Hold a stick vertically at arm’s length so it’s as tall as your arm is long. Walk forward or backward until the top of the stick lines up with the top of the tree and the bottom lines up with the tree’s base. At that point, the distance between you and the tree is roughly its height. Once you have that number, always assume you need a clearance zone of at least twice that distance in every direction.
Is it safe to fell a tree myself (DIY tree felling)?
For very small trees (under about 20–25 feet) standing in a wide-open area, far from houses, power lines, and fences, an experienced person with full PPE and the right tools might be able to do it safely. Once a tree is taller, leaning, dead, damaged, or anywhere near structures or utilities, DIY tree felling becomes extremely risky. In those situations, we strongly recommend calling a professional crew instead of taking that chance.
Do I need a permit to cut down a tree on my property in Delaware or Pennsylvania?
At the state level, Delaware and Pennsylvania generally don’t require a permit just to remove a tree on private property. But many cities, townships, and HOAs do have their own rules—especially for large trees, trees in historic districts, or trees along the street. At Strobert Tree Services, we check local requirements for you and handle any permitting and utility notifications so you’re not surprised by fines or red tape.
How much does professional tree removal cost in the Delaware or Southeastern PA area?
In our service area, most removals fall somewhere between $500 and $2,500+, depending on the tree’s size, condition, location on the property, and how close it is to houses, power lines, or other obstacles. Trees that require climbing, complex rigging, or crane work are on the higher end. We always provide a free, no-obligation on-site quote, so you know the exact price before we start.
When should I call a professional instead of trying it myself?
From our perspective, you should call us right away if:
- The tree is over 25–30 feet tall
- It leans toward your house, power lines, or a neighbor’s property
- It’s dead, decayed, or storm-damaged
- It’s on a slope or unstable ground
- It’s intertwined with other trees or already hung up
- You don’t have full PPE, proper tools, and real experience
If you’re hesitating or you’ve got that gut feeling that something could go wrong, that’s usually your best warning sign. In almost every case we see, the cost of hiring professionals is far less than the bills and stress that come from a failed DIY attempt.
Have more questions or want us to take a look at a specific tree? Call Strobert Tree Services at 1-800-TREE-SERVICE for a free, no-obligation evaluation.
Conclusion: Leave Tree Removal to the Pros
At Strobert Tree Services, we handle tree felling every day with trained crews, specialized equipment, and full insurance. We’ve seen what happens when even one factor is overlooked.
It really comes down to this:
Misjudging a tree’s size, using the wrong tools, or overlooking hazards like power lines can lead to injuries, property damage, and unexpected costs.
At Strobert Tree Services we’re fully insured, ISA-certified, and equipped to handle any tree safely and efficiently. Contact us today for a free, no-obligation quote – let the professionals protect your home and family. Call 1-800-TREE-SERVICE.
Ready to stay safe? Call Strobert Tree Services at 1-800-TREE-SERVICE today for your free, no-obligation quote.
